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Fades & Choosing the Right Haircut
There’s no difference between a taper and a fade. Both refer to a gradual transition from shorter to longer hair. The terminology is often based on where you’re from in the United States. In many southern states we say fade. In the northern region they may say taper. In the west and mid-west they also commonly say taper. No matter which term is used, it’s the same basic technique.
They may look similar, but the main difference is the tool used to create the closest part of the fade. A bald fade is taken down with trimmers. A skin fade is taken closer to the skin using a razor. Because the skin fade is taken closer, it can maintain that bald appearance longer as the hair begins growing back.
The client’s preference comes first, but I also consider head shape, hair texture, hair cleesty, maintenance expectations and the amount of contrast they want. A haircut that looks good on one person isn’t automatically going to complement another person in the same way. That’s why consultation and professional judgment are important.
A fade generally maintains its cleanest appearance for about one week. Many people stretch it to two weeks, but by that point the hair has grown enough that the original fade begins to lose its definition.
The difference is where the hair is faded. A regular fade is faded from side to side and connects around the head. A taper fade is only faded in the temple area on both sides of the head. A taper can also be performed at the nape of the neck. This allows the client to keep more hair around the rest of the head while still having a clean, fresh look.
The difference is where the fade is located on the head.
Low fade: The fade is located below the occipital bone. This keeps more hair on the sides and gives a more subtle look.
Mid fade: The fade is located just above the top of your ear. This gives a balanced look between short and long hair.
High fade: The fade is located at the crown of the head. This creates a higher, more dramatic contrast between the faded area and the hair on top.
I recommed getting a fade weekly if you want to maintain a fresh, clean appearance. Some clients prefer a bi-weekly schedule. By two weeks, enough new growth is usually present that the original fade isn’t as visible. How often you come in depends on how closely you want to maintain it.
A taper fade works well with waves. It allows you to keep more of your wave pattern while still incorporating faded areas. The fade can also be added at the nape of the neck.
Hair Texture, Afros & Waves
A temple fade looks better with an Afro style. The Afro gets its name from the look and shape, so any other fade can take away from its style.
It depends on how you wear your Afro. Some clients intentionally wear it unpicked. Others want the hair completely picked out and then shaped into their desired style. This should be discussed during the consultation.
It depends on how you wear your Afro. Some clients intentionally wear it unpicked. Others want the hair completely picked out and then shaped into their desired style. This should be discussed during the consultation.
No. Cutting an Afro correctly requires training and experience. A barber needs to understand how to create and maintain the shape of the Afro rather than treating it like every other haircut.
Different hair textures can require different tools and techniques. When performing a fade, many of the same fundamental steps still apply. The barber needs to understand how each texture behaves and select the tools and approach accordingly.
Hairlines, Lineups & Common Problems
No hairline is perfectly uniform. Sometimes a small amount of adjustment may be needed to create a straight lineup. If a major push back is required, the barber should explain this to you before proceeding. You should understand the tradeoff and have a say in how far to go.
If a hairline has been pushed back, the best solution is usually to allow the natural hair to grow back in. Once there is enough growth, the barber can work toward following your natural hairline again.
Yes, some haircut problems can be corrected. Others cannot be restored to the originally requested style because too much hair has been removed. In those cases, the adjustment may require changing the haircut. A good barber should explain what's realistically fixable.
You can tell better when some time has passed and the new growth starts filling in. Look at the lighter area in front of your outline. This light area can be an indicator of some push back. If you're unsure, just ask your barber.
Yes. A barber should follow your natural hairline. If there are imperfections that will affect the lineup, the barber should explain them to you and discuss how you want to proceed.
Consultation & Getting the Haircut You Want
Tell your barber about any allergies, scalp abrasions, diseases or illnesses that may affect the barber and other clients. Also, let them know what type of style you want and what you don't want. Good communication before the haircut gives both you and the barber a better result.
Yes. A photo is one of the best ways to show your barber the style you want. Haircut terminology can vary by region, and a picture gives your barber a clear visual reference. The barber can also explain whether that style will work with your hair, head shape and other characteristics.
Most of the time your haircut doesn't look exactly like the picture because of enhancement. Enhancement is a temporary hair color, hair fibers and similar products that make the hair appear darker, fuller starind more defined. These services are provided upon request, and an
additional fee is charged. Without enhancement, the haircut will still look clean and well-cut, but it may not have the same dark, filled-in appearance as the photo you showed.
If you don't like your haircut, explain your concern to the service provider. They should be able to either fix your concern or rectify the problem. It's important to communicate what you don't like so they can address it.
Preparing for Your Haircut & Choosing a Barber
Yes. Clients should come to the barber with clean hair. Excess oil, grease, dandruff and debris can interfere with the haircut and can clog clipper blades. Starting with clean hair gives the barber a better working surface and contributes to a cleaner service.
Look at the barber's actual work, ask people about their experiences, view their social media, and read customer reviews. Don't judge a barber on photos alone. Once you sit in the chair, pay attention to whether they listen, communicate and Finding a good barber is about finding someone whose skills and approach fit what you need.
Answers From Behind the Barber Chair
These answers are based on hands-on professional barbering experience at Fades & Arches Barbershop.